Ted Lapidus
Ted Lapidus
172 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The top notes burst with scorched espresso and a sharp citrus that feels slightly astringent rather than zesty. Within minutes, the coffee dominates entirely, smelling less like a beverage and more like roasted beans ground to dust.
Saffron materialises with a peppery, almost metallic snap, whilst mint introduces a cooling sensation that sharpens rather than sweetens the composition. The leather emerges now—dry, slightly smoky, reminiscent of worn saddle or old book bindings—and the fragrance takes on an almost austere, intellectual quality.
Oud and amber settle into a quiet, woody base that grows increasingly restrained. The leather softens slightly, becoming more animalic than tactile, whilst spice notes fade to barely-perceptible whispers. Within hours, it becomes a skin scent—faint, intimate, almost elusive.
BlackSoul Imperial arrives as a deliberately provocative composition that refuses the comfort of conventional masculinity. Karine Dubreuil-Sereni has constructed something deliberately austere—a fragrance built on bitter and roasted foundations rather than sweetness or approachability. The coffee-citrus opening promises brightness, but this is a feint; the real architecture emerges in the heart, where saffron's peppery-metallic edge collides with a cooling mint that reads less like refreshment and more like menthol's sharp clarification of the coffee's burnt character. Leather and oud form the backbone, creating a distinctly earthy, slightly animalic base that transforms the amber from warming sweetness into something closer to tobacco leaf and aged paper. There's a spiced undertone throughout—not from conventional spice notes, but from the interaction of saffron with oud's inherent peppery qualities.
This is an uncompromising scent for someone uninterested in olfactory flattery. It favours intellectual engagement over sensual comfort. A philosopher's fragrance, perhaps—suited to winter walks through shadowed streets, to study sessions that stretch into evening, to those who view fragrance as a clarifying agent rather than an enhancement. It skews masculine in its presentation despite its unisex classification, appealing to those who've rejected conventional grooming signals. The sparsity of sillage and longevity actually serves the fragrance's character; it feels intentionally ephemeral, like a thought not meant for public consumption.
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4.3/5 (140)