Ulric de Varens
Ulric de Varens
87 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Mango and mandarin orange leap forward with exaggerated sweetness, almost cough-syrup in character, immediately tempered by apricot leaf's slightly tart, herbaceous presence. The initial impression is artificially fruity, somewhere between a sour sweet and a hastily reconstituted juice concentrate.
Vanilla orchid and white peony settle into a soft, powdery embrace as the citrus recedes, creating a cushioned floral-gourmand heart that feels closer to talc-scented body lotion than expansive florals. Yellow freesia adds pinprick brightness beneath the mounting sweetness, though it struggles to maintain independence against the dominant vanilla accord.
Bourbon vanilla and tonka bean deepen into a golden-hued gourmand base, with patchouli attempting a grounding earthiness that arrives somewhat faint and unconvincing. The fragrance becomes increasingly soft and skin-like, eventually fading to a faint, almost transparent sweetness rather than projecting any genuine staying power.
Ulric de Varens' Mini Vanille announces itself as a gourmand fantasy that doesn't quite achieve its ambitions, yet possesses enough sweetly synthetic charm to warrant investigation. The fragrance opens with a peculiar fruity-tropical introduction—apricot leaf bringing a slightly metallic green snap whilst mango and mandarin orange jostle for attention, their juices diffusing into a somewhat artificial orange-cordial effect rather than evoking actual citrus. This initial sweetness feels overengineered, as though the composition is trying to render candied fruit rather than the real thing.
What saves Mini Vanille from complete anonymity is its heart, where vanilla orchid and white peony create a soft, powdery floral blanket. The peony contributes a whisper of soapiness that grounds the composition, whilst yellow freesia adds a slightly sharp, slightly green counterpoint—though these florals never quite penetrate the sticky sweetness enveloping them. It's a rather synthetic affair, admittedly, with those floral notes feeling more like aromatic suggestions than fully realised characters.
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3.6/5 (174)