Van Cleef & Arpels
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The pear and neroli burst forward with honeyed brightness, offering a moment of genuine freshness that feels slightly peppery from the neroli's citrus volatility. Within minutes, however, this top layer begins its retreat as the floral heart rises to meet it, and the composition's true character starts to emerge.
Lily and peony dominate entirely, with osmanthus weaving in delicate apricot-tinged sweetness that keeps the florals from veering into soapy territory. The powdery accord now reveals itself fully—a soft, almost cosmetic quality that's neither fresh nor heavily perfumed, occupying an elegant middle ground. This phase lasts the longest and represents Rêve's most coherent moment.
The amber and sandalwood emerge with minimal fanfare, softening the floral edges without transforming the scent's essential character. What remains is essentially a powdery, sweet embrace—amber providing barely-there warmth whilst sandalwood suggests structure—until the fragrance fades to imperceptible skin scent within hours.
Rêve arrives as a fragrance caught between two impulses: the desire to be pristine and airy, and an underlying craving for soft, powdery femininity. The pear and neroli opening promises something bright and citrusy, yet the composition immediately pivots toward its true identity—a predominantly floral heart where lily and peony create that distinctly powdery effect the accords promise. This isn't a delicate, wispy floral; rather, it's substantive, with osmanthus (lending faint apricot-like sweetness) preventing the florals from becoming one-dimensional.
What makes Rêve intriguing is how it resists easy categorization. The fruity element (88%) never dominates; instead, the pear reads more as a textural enhancer than a fruity driver, creating a subtle sweetness that complements rather than overrides. The base—amber and sandalwood—arrives softly, almost tentatively, like someone dimming the lights rather than switching them off entirely. The amber adds warmth without richness; the sandalwood provides a whisper of woody structure rather than the dense, creamy character found in many unisex fragrances.
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3.3/5 (117)