XerJoff
XerJoff
867 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The eucalyptus arrives like a cold compress against skin, medicinal and piercing, with pine needles crushed between fingers. Fruity notes flicker at the periphery—not juice, but rinds and stems—whilst green notes read almost chlorophyll-sharp, botanical rather than pastoral.
The white florals finally coalesce, but that eucalyptus refuses to retreat entirely, keeping jasmine and lily of the valley tense and slightly soapy rather than indolic. Rose emerges as stem and leaf more than petal, adding a peppery astringency that prevents the composition from going soft, whilst the pine continues its resinous whisper beneath everything.
What remains is a pale, clean floral haze with ghostly traces of camphor and wood. The sweetness finally steps forward, but it's muted—powdery lily of the valley and jasmine rendered almost translucent, like florals pressed between pages until they've given up most of their moisture but none of their structure.
Accento Overdose is Christian Carbonnel's masterclass in restraint meeting excess—a fragrance that takes the white floral overdose concept and bruises it with eucalyptus and pine until something strange and compelling emerges. The opening promises fruit and greenery, but what actually arrives is more complex: a sharp, almost medicinal eucalyptus that slices through a cloud of lily of the valley like camphor through cream. The fruity notes hover at the edges, less identifiable fruit and more the impression of something ripe crushed underfoot in a botanical garden.
What makes this compelling is the pine-jasmine axis at its heart. Stone pine brings a turpentine-adjacent resinousness that refuses to let the Egyptian jasmine go creamy and comfortable. Instead, the jasmine stays taut, almost waxy, whilst Bulgarian rose adds a peppery, stem-green quality rather than romance. Lily of the valley, often demure, turns nearly soapy here—but the aldehydic kind, with edges. This is florals for people who find typical floral fragrances insufferable.
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3.7/5 (74)