YS Uzac
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The tomato leaf and galbanum hit with aggressive greenness—almost savory—whilst bergamot cuts through with clean citrus. There's an immediate herbaceous thrust that feels raw and unpolished, almost creased rather than sprayed.
The peppery geranium emerges alongside genuine spice—clove and black pepper create genuine warmth—whilst curly mint cools the composition from within. Liquorice adds a quiet, slightly sweet undercurrent, preventing the spice from becoming one-dimensional.
The resinous base—labdanum, amber, and sandalwood—settles into a quiet, skin-like whisper that's more suggestion than presence. White musk becomes the anchor, ethereal and almost translucent, whilst faint traces of geranium and pepper fade like afternoon light.
Métaboles - Expressioniste announces itself as a verdant manifesto, all sharp chlorophyll edges and herbal conviction. Vincent Micotti has constructed something deliberately unglamorous here: tomato leaf and galbanum form a bracing, almost bitter green core that refuses the usual floral softness. There's an artisanal vegetality to the opening that feels closer to crushed herb stems than petrol-tinged florals, whilst the bergamot adds citric brightness without sweetening the narrative.
What distinguishes this from straightforward green fragrances is the peculiar restraint of its heart. Rather than bloom into florality, the geranium enters as a peppery whisper—almost overshadowed by the genuine heat of black pepper and clove. The curly mint arrives with cooling precision, creating an unexpected tension between warmth and chill. There's liquorice here too, adding a subtle anisic sweetness that prevents the composition from becoming austere, though never allowing it to court prettiness.
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3.5/5 (192)