Zoologist
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Nutmeg and cardamom ignite immediately, their dry spice cutting through the sweetness of red mandarin and quince. You're hit with a peppery warmth that feels both culinary and natural—like someone's grinding spices in a woodland cottage.
The composition softens into hazelnut and oak, with fir balsam absolute lending a resinous, forest-floor quality that grounds the earlier spice. Chamomile enters quietly, creating an almost chamomile-tea-in-the-woods effect, whilst the woody accords establish themselves as the fragrance's true backbone.
Gaiac wood's leather-smoke mingles with benzoin's amber-vanilla sweetness, creating a slightly murky, introspective base that grows increasingly earthy and animalic. Vetiver and patchouli add a damp-moss quality, leaving behind something contemplative and resolutely niche—definitely not mainstream comfort fragrance territory.
Chipmunk arrives as something of a paradox: a fragrance that smells simultaneously like a forest floor and a baker's pantry. Pia Long has constructed a composition that sits at the intersection of spiced gourmand and woody-earthy base, though it never quite commits to either identity with full conviction.
The opening salvo is all autumn spice—nutmeg and cardamom create a peppery warmth that's immediately inviting, whilst quince and red mandarin add a tart brightness that prevents the composition from becoming cloying. This is where Chipmunk announces itself as a creature of the woods, particularly those touched by early October chill. The spice accord (88%) dominates here, lending the fragrance an almost culinary intensity.
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3.9/5 (197)