Zoologist
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A blast of citrus oils meets black pepper heat, but within moments, the indolic assault begins—ylang-ylang and tuberose arrive with their honeyed, almost overripe intensity, whilst civet lurks just beneath like body heat trapped under silk. Tarragon adds a peculiar herbal-anisic tang that reads simultaneously green and slightly medicinal, preventing the florals from achieving any kind of prettiness.
The floral accord blooms into full, almost oppressive grandeur as carnation's clove-like spice and heliotrope's almond powder join the white flower chorus, all threaded through with that insistent animalic throb. Coffee emerges, bitter and roasted, creating an unexpected bridge between the dirty florals and the building resinous base, whilst frankincense begins to smoke at the edges.
What remains is a golden-brown skin scent of labdanum, vanilla, and musk, still faintly animalic but now more intimate than confrontational. Oakmoss and vetiver provide an earthy foundation, whilst Russian leather adds a smoky, tannin-rich quality that clings to clothing for days, a lingering reminder of the fragrance's uncompromising nature.
Shelley Waddington's Civet is an unapologetically feral indolic explosion that makes no concessions to modern sensibilities. This is the scent of white flowers gone rogue—tuberose and ylang-ylang drowning in their own sweetness whilst civet absolute prowls beneath, all musky warmth and unwashed intimacy. The opening citrus trinity of orange, lemon, and bergamot barely registers as clean; instead, it reads as acidic, slightly soured, like fruit left too long in a hothouse where frangipani petals rot on humid tiles. Black pepper and tarragon add a savoury, almost culinary edge that prevents the composition from becoming pure animalic theatre, whilst carnation's spicy clove facets amplify the scent's Victorian bordello character.
This is not a fragrance for the faint-hearted. Civet demands your complicity, asking you to embrace the uncomfortable truth that attraction and revulsion often occupy the same olfactory space. The resinous base—frankincense, labdanum, and balsams—provides a golden, amber-like glow that almost sanctifies the dirty animalics, whilst coffee and vanilla add bitter-sweet depth. Russian leather and oakmoss conjure up images of worn saddles and velvet curtains in rooms where secrets are kept. This is for those who understand that seduction isn't always polite, who recognise that the most compelling scents often flirt with the edge of too much. Wear it when you want to occupy space unequivocally, when you're feeling provocative, when you're tired of smelling like everyone else's idea of acceptable.
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Cartier
4.3/5 (131)