Zoologist
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Tart red fruits assault immediately—rhubarb's almost medicinal green-pink sharpness coupled with raspberry's jammy brightness—all suspended in champagne's prickling effervescence. Within minutes, this fruity crescendo begins diffusing into something powdery and pale, the carbonation fizzing away as soft musks and cashmeran emerge like morning mist over a cosmetics counter.
The composition settles into its strange double life: a dusted, almost talcum-soft centre where mimosa's slightly soapy florality mingles with cashmeran's creamy woody-amber, whilst beneath this powdery veil, those red fruits persist as ghostly echoes rather than bold statements. This phase is genuinely pretty, almost nostalgic, though noticeably thin and ethereal.
Gaïac wood becomes the primary anchor, lending warmth and a faint resinous smoke, while vanilla and patchouli emerge from beneath the base layers with gentle sweetness. The fragrance continues its retreat into soft, skin-scent territory—a whisper of powdered wood and musk that barely projects, existing mainly as a personal olfactory secret rather than anything meant for projection.
Cockatiel arrives as a peculiar study in contrast—simultaneously tart and powdery, brash and refined. Sven Pritzkoleit has constructed something that feels caught between a champagne cocktail and a grandmother's vanity table, neither entirely comfortable in either role. The rhubarb and raspberry open with genuine sharpness, their natural acidity refusing to soften into generic berry sweetness, whilst the champagne accord provides effervescence rather than boozy depth—you're smelling the fizz, the bubbles themselves. What follows is the fragrance's most intriguing decision: rather than allowing those fruits to fade into background sweetness, powdery notes (likely helional or a similar airy synthetic) roll in and begin neutralising the tartness, transforming the composition into something distinctly cosmetic. Cashmeran enters as a soft, almost soapy woody-amber, playing beautifully against the mimosa's slightly metallic floral edge. There's an androgynous quality here—neither masculine nor feminine, but rather asexual in its cleanliness.
The gaïac wood in the base brings essential structure, a smoky-resinous anchor that prevents the whole affair from floating away on powder and musk. Yet this is a fragrance for the restless wearer, someone seeking a cheerful, unusual olfactory companion rather than a statement. It's clever enough to reward attention—that rhubarb-cashmeran interplay is genuinely lovely—but too ephemeral, too cotton-wool soft, to satisfy those seeking presence or staying power. Cockatiel is the fragrance equivalent of its namesake: bright, a touch eccentric, demanding engagement, but ultimately better admired from a certain distance than lived with daily.
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3.7/5 (193)