Zoologist
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Fennel snaps forward with aggressive herbaceous intensity, accompanied by cardamom's warm spice and the creamy-dusty texture of ambrette seed. The effect is crisp and almost culinary—you might mistake the opening for a savoury aromatic rather than an aquatic composition.
Clary sage emerges to mediate between a restrained, slightly metallic tuberose and fresh neroli, whilst algae absolute creates an underlying mineral-salty current. The composition settles into something almost mossy and green, the floral notes rendered austere by herbaceous contrast.
Ambergris and vetiver anchor the fragrance into warm, rooty territory whilst the algae absolute resurfaces, lending persistent briny, iodised character. The drydown feels increasingly mineral and skin-scent intimate, the spice completely integrated, leaving behind something vaguely salty and distinctly coastal.
Zoologist Seahorse is a maritime study in contradiction—simultaneously briny and gourmand, architectural and organic. Julien Rasquinet has composed something genuinely difficult to categorise: it's aquatic without being conventional, spicy without heat, floral without femininity.
The opening bristles with fennel's anisic bite, sharpened further by the peppery warmth of Guatemala cardamom. These aren't gentle spice notes; they arrive with conviction, cutting through what could otherwise become a soft aquatic. Ambrette seed absolute—that peculiar note oscillating between musk and coconut husk—grounds the composition with a subtle earthiness, preventing the top from floating away entirely.
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3.6/5 (236)