Assam oud smells like the deep, smoky heart of an ancient forest—imagine walking through a temple after incense has burned for hours, mixed with dark leather that's been aged in a humid climate. There's a peppery, almost medicinal warmth beneath the woody base, reminiscent of dried spices and damp earth after monsoon rains. It's profoundly earthy and slightly animalic, with a subtle sweetness that emerges as it settles on skin, like old wood polished with precious oils.
Assam oud comes from the agarwood tree (Aquilaria), primarily harvested in India's Assam region. When the tree suffers infection or injury, it produces a dark, fragrant resin—nature's healing response. This resin is laboriously extracted and distilled into oud oil, an intensely concentrated essence. Assam varieties tend to be earthier and spicier than Middle Eastern ouds, reflecting the region's humid, tropical climate and the tree's unique stress chemistry.
Perfumers employ Assam oud as a luxurious anchor, grounding compositions with sophisticated depth. It's a precious touch—used sparingly—adding mysterious gravitas to fragrances. Its smoky, animalic character bridges traditional and modern aesthetics, functioning as both a base note and a distinctive character note that commands attention.
Surprising harmonies
Amouage
Amouage
Borsari 1870
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Atkinsons