Immortelle smells like sweet hay warmed by summer sun, with honeyed undertones and a subtle burnt-sugar warmth. Imagine walking through a dried flower field where vanilla-scented straw catches the afternoon heat. There's a resinous, almost caramel-like sweetness with whispers of tobacco leaf and the dusty amber of old maple syrup. It's nostalgic and comforting—simultaneously floral, gourmand, and slightly earthy without being green.
Immortelle comes from *Helichrysum italicum*, a Mediterranean wildflower with papery golden-yellow blooms that retain their colour indefinitely (hence "immortal"). Native to Italy and southern France, these delicate flowers are steam-distilled to produce essential oil, which yields a deep-amber liquid with remarkable tenacity. The note gained prominence in fine perfumery during the 1970s and 1980s. Today, natural immortelle oil remains expensive and precious; synthetic versions (using iso E super and other molecules) offer affordable alternatives capturing its distinctive sweet, hay-like character.
Immortelle typically anchors fragrances as a heart or base note, lending addictive sweetness and unusual depth. Perfumers prize it for softening floral compositions and adding exotic dimension—it bridges florals and woody-amber accords. Its natural hay and tobacco facets prevent sweetness from cloying, making it surprisingly versatile in both feminine and unisex compositions.
Surprising harmonies
Parfums MDCI
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Histoires de Parfums
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Oriza L. Legrand
Zoologist
Sylvaine Delacourte
Histoires de Parfums
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Goutal
Penhaligon's
Nabeel