345 Soap Co.
345 Soap Co.
85 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Peach and apple blossom arrive with an almost cider-like warmth, lifted by that peculiar must note which immediately signals this won't be a straightforward fruity proposition. Within minutes, the amber begins its creep upward, turning the fresh stone fruits slightly golden and slightly strange.
Pineapple blossom melds with amber in a creamy, almost jammy embrace, whilst the smoke base gradually sharpens the composition, preventing sweetness from becoming cloying. Patchouli roots the scent firmly into earth, and you're left smelling something between a forest after rain and a fruit preserves shop at twilight.
Smoke, musk, and patchouli dominate entirely, with the rose providing a final whisper of floral restraint. The fragrance settles into skin-scent territory—intimate, slightly animalic, faintly woody, with only ghost-notes of the original fruit sweetness lingering as pale memory.
Rugged Mountain arrives as a calculated contradiction—a fragrance that refuses the obvious route of soapy cleanliness, instead weaponising its fruity sweetness against a deliberately earthy foundation. Julien Rasquinet has constructed something genuinely unusual here: the peach and apple blossom opening doesn't signal fresh-scrubbed innocence, but rather acts as a Trojan horse for the amber and musk lurking beneath. That "must" note in the top registers as something faintly animalic, almost fermented, preventing this from ever becoming a bright fruity cologne.
The pineapple blossom heart is where the composition reveals its sophistication. Rather than clash with the creamy amber accord (which saturates at 100%), it dissolves into something almost tropical yet restrained—imagine overripe fruit fermenting at the forest floor. This is where the smoke base begins its insistent emergence, threading through the sweetness like wildfire smoke filtering through a sunlit valley. The wild rose provides structure, keeping the composition from tipping into gourmand excess, whilst patchouli anchors everything to damp earth.
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3.2/5 (112)