Ajne
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blackcurrant and guava arrive with sudden tropical insistence, the tartness cutting through lilac's softer, powdery presence whilst wisteria creates a slightly green backdrop. Within five minutes the fruit begins oxidising slightly, revealing subtler floral whispers beneath its initial fruity declaration.
As the composition settles, jasmine emerges with understated elegance, the aqueous quality of Vexlim keeping everything crystalline rather than creamy. Lotus and orchid add nuance without amplification—the heart refuses to become heavier, instead developing a cool, almost metallic florality that feels distinctly artificial in the most sophisticated sense.
The woods—particularly cedar and vetiver—gradually dominate as the florals recede, creating a faintly bitter, slightly woody-green finale with musk providing subtle warmth without sweetness. By the fourth hour, the fragrance has contracted significantly, becoming almost a whisper of cedar and skin-warmth rather than a discernible composition.
Bloom de Nuit arrives as a nocturnal garden interrupted by tropical humidity. Loc Dong has constructed something deliberately paradoxical here—a night fragrance that refuses to whisper. The opening salvo of wisteria and blackcurrant creates a tart, slightly astringent overture, immediately complicated by guava's fleshy sweetness and lilac's powdery insistence. There's an almost uncomfortable tension between the fruit's brightness and the floral structure, as though someone's opened all the windows of a greenhouse at dusk.
What distinguishes this from conventional floral compositions is the presence of Vexlim in the heart—a synthetic that lends an aqueous, slightly metallic quality to the jasmine and lotus, preventing the composition from becoming solely romantic or soft. The orchid adds structural support rather than additional prettiness, keeping everything slightly cool, slightly restrained. This is not a fragrance that coddles; it observes.
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3.8/5 (105)