Berdoues
Berdoues
152 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The Italian mandarin arrives with unexpected vibrancy, bright and almost peppery, before the oud emerges as a dark undercurrent—not yet fully formed, but present, like shadows lengthening across a room. This initial contrast feels briefly jarring, almost confrontational.
As the myrrh accords crystallise, the composition becomes considerably more cohesive; the citrus retreats into the background whilst resinous warmth dominates, creating a spiced, slightly smoky character that feels vaguely aromatic and genuinely comforting. The woody base intensifies here, revealing subtle animalic undertones that prevent the composition from becoming too austere.
By the final hours, you're left with a whisper-soft woody amber, largely denuded of freshness, settling into skin as little more than a barely perceptible warmth and the faintest suggestion of incense-laden fabric.
Oud Al Sahraa is a fragrance that understands restraint—a quality increasingly rare in modern oud compositions. Rather than the often-cloying animalic heaviness that dominates the category, Christian Vermorel has constructed something considerably more architectural here. The Malayan oud forms the skeletal structure, but it's a measured one, its woody character refusing to overwhelm. What makes this composition compelling is the interplay between the opening's Italian mandarin brightness and the heart's Namibian myrrh. That myrrh doesn't sweeten; instead, it acts as a resinous binding agent, creating a slightly brackish, almost leathery quality that prevents the citrus from feeling decorative. The fragrance occupies an intriguing tonal space—somewhere between a spiced leather workshop and a desert camp at dusk, all woodsmoke and incense. It's decidedly unisex in its restraint, favouring the wearer who appreciates complexity over immediate gratification. This isn't a fragrance for the faint-hearted or those seeking projection; rather, it's for the person who wants a thoughtful, slightly austere companion. You'd wear this when you're intellectually present—perhaps during contemplative autumn evenings, or when you want something that rewards close inspection without announcing itself to the room. It's the olfactory equivalent of choosing a well-worn leather notebook over a pristine one.
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3.5/5 (115)