Jul et Mad
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and orange arrive with surprising brightness, immediately brightened by cumin's dusty spice and pink pepper's subtle bite. The citrus feels almost herbal, as though you've crushed dried peel between your fingers, and within moments the composition begins its inward turn toward something more contemplative.
The oud emerges as a dark thread running beneath rum's honeyed warmth and saffron's peppery opacity. This is where Garuda becomes genuinely compelling—the spiced notes coalesce into something almost incense-like, creating a quietly hypnotic middle passage that feels both mysterious and oddly comforting. The composition becomes resolutely woody, earthy, and introspective.
What remains is almost whisper-soft: patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood create a muted, skin-like base, with vanilla and musk providing barely-there softness rather than sweetness. The fragrance becomes increasingly intimate, settling into a gentle, earthy embrace that smells like aged paper and distant oud smoke. By this stage, Garuda exists more as a memory of scent than as an active presence.
Garuda arrives as a masterclass in restrained orientalism—a fragrance that respects the potency of its ingredients rather than shouting them. Luca Maffei has crafted something genuinely spiced without veering into culinary territory; the opening's cumin and pink pepper dance around bergamot and orange like smoke rather than asserting themselves as distinct entities. This is immediately intriguing, a citrus arrangement that feels almost savoury.
What distinguishes Garuda, however, is its commitment to oud as a structural element rather than a headline act. The Cambodian oud in the heart doesn't dominate—it anchors. Paired against rum's subtle sweetness and saffron's peppery-floral whisper, it becomes something contemplative, almost austere. This is where the fragrance reveals its true character: meditative rather than seductive, intellectual rather than immediately pleasurable.
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3.7/5 (178)