Bvlgari
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Green tea arrives first, astringent and smoke-tinged, immediately joined by bergamot that reads almost acrid against the burnt quality of the tea. Within minutes, a distinctive rubber-leather accord emerges, dominating everything else with its modern, industrial character—this is unmistakably synthetic and utterly intentional.
The leather intensifies, now fully fleshed out with smoky, resinous depth whilst vanilla begins its sweetening work from beneath. Cedar and sandalwood provide subtle woody texture, and there's a ghost of jasmine floating through, just enough to add complexity without softening the composition's hard edges. The rubber quality persists, creating that signature tyre-shop association that defines this fragrance.
What remains is a sweet, ambery leather with persistent smokiness clinging to the skin. The vanilla-amber-musk base becomes more prominent now, tempering the leather's aggression into something warmer, almost comforting, whilst retaining enough of that industrial character to remain recognisably Black. It's softer but never entirely tame, like worn leather that still carries the memory of its rebellious youth.
Bvlgari Black is a leather fragrance that refuses to play by traditional rules, draping industrial smoke and rubber over unexpected greenness. The opening juxtaposes sharp bergamot citrus with green tea's vegetal brightness—an unusual prelude to what becomes a full-bodied leather symphony. Annick Ménardo crafts something deliberately confrontational here: the tea accord reads almost burnt, smoky and slightly bitter, whilst the bergamot adds a fleeting brightness before the leather fully asserts itself.
This isn't supple nappa or refined suede. The leather note carries a modern, synthetic edge—think new tyres, rubber, the inside of a motorcycle helmet—tempered by vanilla's sweetness that prevents it from becoming unwearable. Cedar and sandalwood provide woody scaffolding, but they're deliberately understated, allowing that distinctive rubbery-smoky character to dominate. The jasmine is nearly subliminal, adding just enough floralcy to soften the composition's harsher edges without feminising it.
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Laboratorio Olfattivo
3.9/5 (228)