Caron
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Tarragon erupts first, its metallic-green spice immediately flanked by galbanum's sharp, almost petroleum-like brightness. Bergamot and petitgrain arrive as supporting players, but this is fundamentally a herbaceous, slightly medicinal moment—bracing rather than welcoming.
The composition pivots dramatically as leather and patchouli emerge from beneath the herbal curtain, creating a smoky, suede-like foundation. Carnation and geranium layer in a peppery-clove complexity, whilst jasmine softens the edges with creamy whispers; pine needle and vetiver deepen the woody profile into something simultaneously resinous and earthy.
The fragrance contracts into its leather-and-amber base, where labdanum's slightly caramelised warmth and oakmoss's earthy, almost tobacco-like quality dominate. Musk and styrax create a skin-hugging, animalic embrace—intimate and vaguely powdery, though faint and fleeting given the eau de toilette concentration.
Yatagan is a fragrance that announces itself with militant precision—a green-spiced declaration that refuses apology. Vincent Marcello's 1976 creation reads as aggressively herbal from the outset, with tarragon's anise-tinged bite cutting through a galbanum-sharpened opening that feels almost medicinal in its clarity. Yet this isn't a fresh cologne; beneath the verdant top lies a deeply woody skeleton that transforms what could have been a simple aromatic into something considerably more complex and mannered.
The heart reveals Caron's masterful hand with leather and patchouli creating a suede-against-skin intimacy that contrasts sharply with the austere opening. Carnation adds a clove-like spice that marries seamlessly with geranium's peppery green, whilst jasmine whispers a barely-there floral sweetness—never allowed dominance, merely threading through the darker elements like silk through burlap. Pine needle and vetiver deepen the woody character into something almost resinous, slightly medicinal still, but now wrapped in a leather-and-earth sensuality.
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4.2/5 (129)