Dusita
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Dried apricot and fig meet coriander's slightly soapy spice whilst saffron lends an almost medicinal gold tone—the cinnamon and nutmeg arrive not as baked goods but as something sharper, almost peppery. Within minutes, oregano's green herbaceousness clashes gently with petitgrain's citrus shimmer, creating an unstable but compelling opening that feels more culinary than traditionally fragrant.
The florals emerge with unexpected forcefulness, leather and tobacco anchoring them into something resembling a tobacco flower or a rose growing beside a barn. The Sambac jasmine becomes creamy-spiced, whilst the orris butter settles into a talcum-like dryness that adds structure. This middle phase oscillates between sweetness and savouriness, never quite settling—ylang ylang's indolic richness deepens the animalic character, making the whole composition feel vaguely animalic and faintly human.
Oud and patchouli dominate, creating a dense woody-resinous base that feels almost gaiacal. Tonka bean surfaces here as caramelised sweetness cutting through the smoke-like tobacco, whilst cedarwood and sandalwood provide a cooler, slightly creamy counterbalance. The leather fades to a faint memory of suede, leaving a composition that's contemplative, somewhat austere, and deeply interior.
Montri arrives as a scholar's reverie—equal parts spice merchant and leather-bound library. Pissara Umavijani constructs something deliberately disorienting: the opening salvo of coriander and saffron suggests warmth, but dried fruits introduce an almost fermented sweetness that muddies the narrative. This is not comfort; this is intrigue. The heart unfurls with a provocative friction between florals and leather—Damask rose and Sambac jasmine should sing innocently enough, but they're tethered to tobacco and leather that speaks of aged skin, worn jackets, the scent of someone who smells like decisions rather than perfume. Orris butter adds a violet-tinged powder that's neither clean nor pretty, and ylang ylang contributes an almost diesel-like animalic thrust.
The base doesn't resolve so much as compound the complexity. Oud and patchouli establish a woody-dark foundation, but tonka bean—that notorious sweetener—refuses to soften the edges here. Instead, it creates tension with the tobacco and leather, suggesting caramelised smoke rather than gourmand comfort. Cedarwood and sandalwood provide structure whilst vetiver adds a mineral, almost soapy counterpoint.
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3.5/5 (93)