Electimuss
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Citrus bursts forth with disarming brightness—bergamot and mandarin orange energised by snappy black pepper and pink pepper's almost effervescent heat. The initial impression is almost cheerful, almost conventional, before cade juniper begins its creeping arrival, introducing a smoky, slightly acrid character that immediately darkens the mood.
The patchouli establishes dominion, earthy and faintly fermented, whilst birch adds cool, almost paper-like dryness. Carnation contributes a clove-forward spice that keeps the composition from settling into pure earthiness, and the mat absolute introduces a subtle, slightly animalic warmth that grounds everything in genuine skin-scent territory.
Styrax and labdanum create a resinous, amber-tinged base that's softly woody, whilst castoreum adds a whisper of leather and animalic depth. The patchouli remains the skeletal structure, now quieter but more intimate, lingering with earthy persistence against the fragrance's fading spice.
Patchouli of the Underworld is a fragrance that treats patchouli not as a bohemian afterthought, but as a subterranean force—something excavated and unpolished. Kevin Mathys has constructed a scent that feels genuinely earthy without resorting to vetiver's predictable greenery or oud's manufactured darkness.
The opening assault is citric and peppery, bergamot and mandarin orange crackling against black and pink pepper like flint striking stone. But this brightness exists only as a gateway. Within minutes, the cade juniper arrives with its distinctive tar-like, slightly medicinal character, immediately complicating the cheerful citrus and pulling the fragrance downwards into something altogether more serious. This is where the leather accord takes hold—not the polished leather of a luxury car interior, but treated hide, something with weight and history.
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3.9/5 (142)