Elie Saab
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The roasted pistachio hits immediately, nutty and caramelised, backed by a blast of mandarin that's more marmalade than citrus zest. Pear syrup sweetness floods in almost simultaneously, creating a dense, golden opening that's arrestingly edible—like standing too close to a patisserie window on a cold morning.
Orange blossom absolute emerges with its characteristic waxy, honeyed character, tempering some of that initial sugar rush while the almond note doubles down, now reading as pure marzipan. Magnolia weaves through with a subtle soapiness and citric lift, but it's a supporting player; this stage belongs to the almond-orange blossom duet, creamy and narcotic.
Almond milk and tonka create a soft, vanillic haze that clings close to skin, whilst cashmeran adds a musky, slightly woody whisper that keeps this from going full confectionary. The patchouli is barely perceptible, more of a grounding shadow than a distinct note, leaving you with a sweet, skin-like warmth that's comforting rather than cloying.
Girl of Now opens with a provocative gambit: roasted pistachio meeting mandarin in a sticky-sweet collision that immediately announces this isn't your typical floral eau de toilette. Dominique Ropion has crafted something deliberately indulgent here, a gourmand composition that walks the tightrope between dessert counter and perfume counter with surprising deftness. The pear in the opening isn't the watery, translucent pear of so many fruity florals—it's honeyed and yielding, almost compote-like in its density.
What makes this fragrance compelling is how the almond motif threads through every stage, from the marzipan-adjacent heart where it tangoes with orange blossom absolute (that crucial 'absolute' doing heavy lifting, lending depth and indolic warmth) to the milky sweetness of the base. The orange blossom here isn't scrubbed clean; it carries that characteristic bitter-creamy duality that keeps the composition from toppling into pure confection. Magnolia adds a lemony freshness that briefly lifts the heart before cashmeran's musky-woody blur takes hold.
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3.8/5 (193)