Elie Saab
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Roasted pistachio hits with immediate, almost savoury intrigue—dusty, warm, faintly nutty—before pineapple's tropical brightness cuts through with genuine fruit intensity, backed by pear's crisp, slightly honeyed quality. The first ten minutes smell like a fragment of haute pâtisserie, all toasted grain and fresh stone fruit.
Almond and ylang-ylang emerge as a creamy, slightly buttery heart, whilst orange blossom adds a waxy, almost green-tinged floral presence that keeps everything grounded and sophisticated. The sweetness intensifies here but remains measured, with that creamy accord adding texture rather than cloying saccharine weight.
Iris powder and patchouli slowly dominate as vanilla settles into the background, creating a woody-sweet base that's considerably more refined than the opening's playful gourmand nature. What lingers is a soft, earthy sweetness with subtle woody undertones—less dessert, more skin scent.
Girl of Now Shine arrives as a peculiar collision of the patisserie and the orchard—a fragrance that seems confused about whether it wants to be dessert or fruit salad, yet somehow reconciles both impulses with disarming charm. Sophie Labbé has constructed something genuinely unusual here: the roasted pistachio note in the opening is savoury-nutty in the best way, a toasted grain quality that immediately distances this from typical fruity-floral territory. It's quickly joined by bright, almost tropical pineapple and pear that feel genuinely juicy rather than candied, creating an opening act that tastes as much as it smells.
What follows is a masterclass in creamy gourmand restraint. The heart doesn't descend into saccharine excess—instead, almond and ylang-ylang weave together with an almost buttery softness, whilst orange blossom adds a waxy, slightly green floral edge that prevents the composition from becoming confectionery. There's a subtle creamy accord threaded through here that feels more like natural nut oil than synthetic vanilla cream, which is precisely what elevates this beyond typical flanker territory.
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3.8/5 (179)