Elie Saab
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The mandarin strikes first with honeyed brightness, immediately tempered by neroli's slightly green, soapy edge that prevents any candy-shop associations. The rose begins its emergence within seconds, Bulgarian and Turkish absolutes merging into something both dewy and slightly powdery, with the patchouli already beginning its earthy whisper beneath.
By the first hour, the composition settles into its true character—a creamy, lightly spiced floral where the rose dominates but never feels heavy. The sandalwood emerges as a soft, slightly creamy companion, whilst the patchouli's earthy-leather quality adds unexpected depth and prevents the vanilla from becoming dessert-like. The accords meld into something genuinely elegant rather than merely pretty.
Within four hours, the fragrance has retreated significantly—this is where longevity becomes genuinely problematic. What remains is a soft, woody-amber skin scent where vanilla and sandalwood become increasingly prominent. The rose fades to a whispered memory, and the composition transforms into something almost abstract: warm, slightly peppery wood with an amber glow, intimate enough to require close contact but rewarding those who lean in.
Le Parfum Royal arrives as a rose-centric composition that refuses the typical florals' ethereal whisper. Maïa Lernout has constructed something altogether more sensual and grounded—a fragrance that treats its rose accord (Bulgarian and Turkish absolutes working in tandem) as the architectural spine rather than a delicate flourish. The mandarin top provides initial brightness, but this is no cheerful citrus; it's muted, almost candied, suggesting marmalade rather than fresh fruit peel. What makes this composition compelling is how the Lebanese neroli refuses to lighten the load—instead, it adds a slightly green, almost bitter dimension that prevents the roses from becoming saccharine.
The base reveals the true character. Indonesian patchouli and Indian sandalwood create a woody foundation that's distinctly earthy and tactile, with patchouli's almost leathery undertones grounding what could otherwise be an overly sweet composition. Amber and vanilla don't dissolve into gourmandise here; they warm and caress rather than seduce with obvious sweetness. This is a fragrance for someone who appreciates florals but finds traditional rose perfumes cloying. It's worn by those who favour substance over projection, who understand that intimacy sometimes requires proximity.
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3.9/5 (144)