Gisada
Gisada
304 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Liquorice announces itself with uncompromising clarity, bracketed by the bright, almost detergent-fresh burst of grapefruit and bergamot cut with pink pepper's metallic tingle. Frankincense and cardamom weave through, creating an oddly spiritual quality that sits strangely alongside the sweetness already threatening at the edges. The ginger CO2 adds a crystalline, almost effervescent sharpness that makes the whole composition shimmer and buzz.
Caramel and raspberry surge forward in a wave of unapologetic gourmand pleasure, but the clove-carnation pairing adds a Victorian spiciness that feels almost fusty in contrast. The geranium contributes a green, slightly soapy rose facet whilst heliotrope dusts everything with almond powder, creating a complex sweetness that's part patisserie, part apothecary. Cinnamon simmers underneath, warming and rounding the fruitiness into something richer, darker.
The base settles into familiar amber-vanilla territory, but the vetiver and patchouli provide an earthy counterpoint that prevents total saccharine collapse. Tonka and labdanum create a resinous, almost balsamic sweetness whilst cashmere wood adds a diffuse woolliness. The leather remains subtle, more suggestion than statement, whilst oakmoss lends a whisper of chypre structure to an otherwise unabashedly oriental finish.
Ambassador Intense is a fragrance of deliberate contradictions, where the medicinal snap of liquorice and the church-like solemnity of frankincense collide headlong with sticky caramel and raspberry. This is sweetness with an edge—quite literally spiced to the point of discomfort with nutmeg, cardamom, and a clove-carnation heart that burns with old-fashioned intensity. The opening throws everything at you simultaneously: ozone-scrubbed citrus, pink pepper's fizz, the resinous bite of elemi, all swirling around that distinctive anisic liquorice that either intrigues or repels. There's something deliberately synthetic about the construction, a candied, almost confectionery quality that feels unabashedly modern despite the classic structure beneath.
As it develops, the raspberry-caramel accord dominates, but it's no gentle gourmand—the Egyptian geranium adds a rosy metallic tang whilst heliotrope lends powdery almond facets that play beautifully against the darker spices. The base eventually emerges as a plush oriental foundation: tonka and vanilla bolstered by the earthiness of vetiver and patchouli, labdanum's amber warmth, and a whisper of leather that keeps things from tipping into pure dessert territory. This is for someone who wants to smell simultaneously indulgent and challenging, who appreciates the tension between ecclesiastical spice and modern sweetness. Evening wear, certainly, for those unafraid of projection and the questions that follow in their wake.
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3.6/5 (1.6k)