Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake
84 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The bergamot-aniseed combination strikes immediately with licorice brightness, but mahogany and coconut muddy the waters deliberately—this isn't clean citrus, it's woody and slightly creamy from the outset, refusing clarity. There's an unsettling sweetness that doesn't feel quite like gourmand; instead, it's aromatic and almost medicinal, as though you've just opened an apothecary jar.
Milk arrives like cream poured into tea, instantly softening the spice as rose and jasmine become ghostly florals beneath the powdery-green hydrangea. Caramel surfaces not as a sweet note but as something almost resinous and dry, creating a strange powdery-gourmand tension that feels both comforting and intellectually challenging—the fragrance becomes genuinely interesting here, shedding its opening's woody confusion.
Cedar and gaiac wood dominate with a dry, almost medicinal warmth, whilst vanilla and amber remain restrained, never cloying. The musk and sandalwood create a creamy-dry skin scent that becomes increasingly intimate, smelling more like personal warmth than projection—by hour four, it's barely discernible beyond an arm's length, a veil rather than an announcement.
Le Feu d'Issey Light arrives as a paradox—a fragrance named for fire that operates in whispers rather than declarations. Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud has constructed something genuinely peculiar here: an aniseed-led opening that feels almost licorice-sweet, yet tempered by bergamot's citric restraint and mahogany's woody intrigue, creates an immediate sensory confusion that's rather intoxicating. This isn't the aggressive spice you'd anticipate; instead, the aniseed plays coy with the coconut, creating an almost gourmand whisper before the heart emerges.
The genius lies in what happens next. Milk arrives like a cooling balm, softening the edges of rose and jasmine which could have felt dated in 2000 but instead feel abstract, almost impressionistic. The caramel doesn't become creamy—it remains somehow structural, almost herbal, anchoring the hydrangea's powdery, slightly soapy green florals. This is where the fragrance reveals its true personality: feminine-coded yet fundamentally unisex in its refusal to flatter or seduce. It smells like someone's singular aesthetic rather than a commercial calculation.
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3.6/5 (82)