Issey Miyake
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Wild rose explodes with a green, almost tart character—neroli brightens the top, whilst that green accord feels sharp and almost slightly herbaceous. Pink pepper crackles against your skin, immediately refusing sentimentality.
The composition softens considerably as white musk rises and envelops the rose, creating an almost translucent floral cloud. Pink pepper recedes into a peppery whisper, and the neroli melds with the Bulgarian rose to create something faintly peachy and deeply elegant, with a creamy luminosity that speaks of quiet luxury.
Cedar emerges with a dry, pencil-shaving quality whilst patchouli provides a gentle earthiness rather than the typical dark sweetness. The fragrance becomes increasingly wispy and skin-scent intimate, fading into a soft, almost invisible musky-woody haze that sits remarkably close to the body.
Pleats Please L'Eau is a fragrance built on the tension between softness and structure, much like the creased fabrics that inspired its name. Aurélien Guichard has crafted something deceptively simple: a rose fragrance that refuses to be merely floral. The wild rose opening immediately signals restraint—this is not the heady damask of a classical rose perfume, but something fresher, with a green underbelly that suggests morning dew on petals rather than the perfumed air of a hothouse.
What makes this composition compelling is its treatment of pink pepper. Rather than arriving as a spice, it functions as a prickling agent that sharpens the rose's edges, preventing the fragrance from collapsing into saccharine territory. The white musk and neroli create a luminous quality, pushing the floral accord towards the aldehydic rather than the honeyed, whilst the Bulgarian rose adds depth without overwhelming. There's an almost transparent quality here—the green accord (76%) keeps everything airy, preventing any sense of density.
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3.6/5 (86)