Kilian
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The grapefruit and lemon hit with surprising aggression, their oils almost petrol-sharp before the mango flesh comes surging through, fleshy and bordering on fermented. Pink pepper crackles at the edges like static, adding a metallic tingle that keeps everything from sliding into pure fruit salad territory.
The jasmine sambac unfurls with its characteristic dirty sweetness whilst that rice note creates something almost savoury—think of the skin on warm coconut milk, or the starchy water left after rinsing rice. The mango persists stubbornly, refusing to fade, whilst coconut milk adds a润texture that feels almost edible.
Roasted tonka dominates, its burnt-caramel facets mingling with vetiver's dry, grassy bitterness to create something like the woody char left at the bottom of a crème brûlée dish. The sweetness lingers but it's tempered, earthier, with just a ghost of that initial tropical delirium haunting the skin.
Calice Becker's Moonlight in Heaven reads like a fever dream of a tropical night, where the sticky sweetness of overripe mango collides with the sharp citric bite of grapefruit and lemon zest. This isn't the cleaned-up, sanitised version of paradise you'd find in a resort brochure—there's something genuinely strange happening here, particularly in that rice note threading through the composition like warm, slightly glutinous milk. The jasmine sambac arrives with its characteristic indolic funk, refusing to be domesticated by the coconut milk that might otherwise turn this into simple beachside fare.
What makes this fragrance so polarising is how Becker leans into an almost savoury quality. The pink pepper adds a prickly, not-quite-floral spice that keeps the fruit from becoming cloying, whilst that rice accord creates an oddly starchy, skin-like texture against the creaminess. It's the olfactory equivalent of mango sticky rice, but rendered in haute perfumery materials—simultaneously comforting and disorienting. The roasted tonka bean in the base brings a burnt-sugar edge that plays beautifully against vetiver's green, earthy bitterness, preventing the composition from collapsing into pure dessert territory.
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