Lancôme
Lancôme
468 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blackcurrant and mandarin orange tumble forth in crystalline brightness, with narcissus lending a slightly peppery green quality that cuts through the sweetness. The bergamot arrives like early morning light filtering through leaves, sharp and clarifying, creating an almost citrus-forward impression that belies what's coming.
The florals emerge gradually, tuberose and jasmine unfurling with surprising restraint given their notorious heaviness. Leather threads through like dark sepia tones, anchoring the increasingly honeyed freesia and orange blossom, whilst heliotrope's almond-like warmth softens into powdery subtlety. This phase feels suspended—neither bright nor dark, neither purely sweet nor dry.
What remains is largely vanilla, tonka bean, and amber in soft conversation with residual musk. The florals have retreated to whispered echoes, and the leather has faded almost entirely, leaving something closer to a creamy, gently spiced vanilla rather than the structured floral that opened. It's delicate work—more skin scent than presence.
Poême is a fragrance that arrives as a paradox—a floral of almost shocking sweetness wrapped in an architectural frame of restraint. Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud has constructed something that feels both romantic and cerebral, a perfume that refuses the obvious path through its chosen material.
The opening announces itself through a burst of stone fruit (that blackcurrant and plum) cutting through luminous bergamot, with narcissus providing an almost aqueous green sharpness. But this is immediately colonised by the heart's tuberose and jasmine, which don't whisper—they bloom with almost indecent abundance. What prevents this from becoming suffocating is the interplay of leather and heliotrope: the leather introduces a subtle animalic undertone that keeps the florals honest, whilst heliotrope's powdery warmth creates a kind of chromatic bridge between the floral profusion and the vanilla-tonka base.
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Boucheron
4.0/5 (252)