Lanvin
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The aldehydes and bergamot burst forth with crystalline brightness, immediately undercut by clary sage's herbal green note and a bright snap of neroli and lemon. Within moments, however, the civet begins its creeping emergence—a subtle animalic warmth that transforms the fresh opening into something more ambiguous and distinctly carnal.
The dense floral accord blooms into full presence, with jasmine and rose anchoring a chorus of white flowers—narcissus particularly lending an almost indolic, almost fecal richness that challenges the initial freshness. Orris root's powdery iris and clove's spicy warmth create a centre that feels simultaneously soft and sharp, whilst the styrax and tolu balm add honeyed depth beneath, building unexpected sweetness without cloying.
The woods and vetiver emerge as the florals gradually recede, creating a semi-transparent woody-powdery base where traces of musk and vanilla provide gentle comfort. Civet becomes more pronounced in this final phase, lending an almost skin-like quality—the fragrance transforms into something intimately worn rather than broadly projected, fading into a powdery, faintly animalic whisper that clings close to the body.
Eau My Sin Mon Péché arrives as a profoundly textured floral that refuses the delicate prettiness one might expect from a 1924 composition. Marie Zède has constructed something deliberately voluptuous—a fragrance that embraces its own sensuality without apology. The aldehydes in the opening provide a soapy luminosity that catches light, but they're immediately tempered by the creamy, almost meaty richness of civet and the powdery sweetness of orris root in the heart, creating a discourse between refinement and animal magnetism.
This is a scent for those drawn to the contradictions of classic femininity: simultaneously powdered and feral. The jasmine and rose play against narcissus and lily of the valley—white florals that typically read as innocent—yet they're grounded by tolu balm's honeyed warmth and styrax's almost chocolatey depth. Clove adds a subtle spice that prevents the composition from becoming static, giving the dense floral accord subtle angles and movement.
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