Lanvin
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Violet leaf strikes first with its green, slightly astringent character, immediately anchoring the raspberry in savoury territory rather than sweet. The combination feels almost herbal in its freshness, as if you've crushed green stems between your fingers whilst holding fresh berries—bright, tart, and vaguely waxy.
The magnolia softens the composition's initial sharpness, introducing a creamy floral body that allows the plum's dark, jammy character to emerge and breathe. Here the fragrance finds its true identity—no longer green or particularly sharp, but instead a sophisticated balance between creamy florality and subtle fruit darkness, with the synthetic accords providing an almost architectural quality to its structure.
Cedar establishes dominance as the fruitier elements fade, contributing a dry, slightly dusty woodiness that prevents any residual sweetness from lingering cloying. Musk surfaces as a skin-scent base, mercifully subtle rather than soapy, leaving behind a delicate woody-floral whisper that feels more sophisticated than its modest longevity might suggest.
Jeanne Lanvin Couture arrives as a carefully constructed contradiction—a fragrance that whispers rather than announces, yet refuses to disappear entirely into the ether. The raspberry-violet leaf opening establishes a crisp, almost tart fruity foundation that immediately signals intelligence; this isn't a candied fruit bomb, but rather the green, slightly peppery character of violet leaf tempering the berry's natural sweetness. As magnolia and plum emerge in the heart, the composition pivots towards something more classically feminine without descending into predictability. The magnolia provides a creamy, almost waxy floral body that catches the plum's darker, stone-fruit character—creating a tension between elegance and earthiness that feels genuinely modern.
The synthetic accords (at 52%) reveal themselves here not as jarring or plasticky, but as architectural elements holding the composition's geometric precision. Cedar in the base prevents this from becoming another generic fruity-floral; it introduces a subtle woody dryness that reminds you this is a Lanvin creation, a house steeped in couture codes rather than commercial formulas.
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2.9/5 (131)