L'Artisan Parfumeur
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Lime cuts through immediately with surgical precision, supported by pink pepper's dry bite and ginger's warming sting—a peppery citrus volley that feels almost confrontational. Within moments, the spice intensifies, becoming three-dimensional, whilst the citrus thins into a bright, almost white backdrop.
Star anise emerges with aniseedy sweetness, tempered by rum's earthiness and black pepper's lingering heat, creating an aromatic complexity that's neither floral nor fruity but distinctly herbaceous-spiced. The woody notes begin asserting themselves now, cedar lending a pencil-shaving dryness that intertwines with the rum's slight warmth.
Frankincense and guaiacwood take command, reducing the composition to its essential resinous core—dry, meditative, almost churchlike in its solemnity. The spice fades into memory as cedar's dry woodiness and frankincense's smoky incense dominate, creating a skin scent rather than a projection.
Navegar arrives as a study in controlled chaos—a fragrance that refuses the comfortable middle ground. Olivia Giacobetti constructs something simultaneously peppery and resinous, where lime's sharp citrus brightness meets the almost savoury spice of star anise and rum. This is not a gentle aromatic experience. The pink pepper and ginger create an initial sting, a sensory jolt that demands attention, whilst the woody base—cedar and guaiacwood—anchors everything with a dry, almost smoky solemnity that prevents this from becoming a mere spice-bomb.
The character here is decidedly unpolished, raw even. There's a maritime quality implicit in the name Navegar (to sail), though this isn't the salty ozonic route many perfumes take. Instead, you're getting the spiced cargo hold of a trading vessel, the resinous frankincense suggesting sandalwood traders and centuries of voyages. The rum note isn't gourmand sweetness—it reads as the austere spirit itself, adding a slightly intoxicating warmth rather than vanilla-tinged indulgence.
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4.3/5 (204)