Mäurer & Wirtz
Mäurer & Wirtz
190 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The bergamot and grapefruit ignite with immediate citrus brightness, but the black pepper crashes through like a door slamming, transforming potential freshness into something decidedly peppery and angular. Within moments, the synthetic accords announce themselves with a clean, almost herbaceous snap.
Lavender and geranium soften the edges minimally, creating a slightly soapy, barbershop atmosphere where the tonka bean lurks underneath like a memory of sweetness. The fragrance settles into an interesting duality—fresh on the surface, with patchouli and leather deepening the composition into something more contemplative and worn.
Vetiver takes command, dragging the composition into dry, slightly bitter-green territory whilst leather becomes suede-soft against skin. The citrus vanishes entirely, leaving a sparse, austere finish that feels more like the ghost of tobacco than its celebration—something grey, minimal, and oddly sophisticated.
Tabac Original Craftsman arrives as a paradox: a fragrance that trades the typical amber warmth of tobacco scents for something considerably more austere and grey-suited. The bergamot and grapefruit in the opening promise citrus brightness, but the black pepper immediately complicates matters, introducing a peppery bite that prevents this from ever becoming cheerful or summery. This is tobacco filtered through a Nordic sensibility—all clean lines and architectural restraint rather than syrupy indulgence.
The genius lies in how the heart notes wrestle with those citrus elements. Lavender and geranium typically soften a composition, yet here they feel almost confrontational, refusing to sweeten the narrative. The tonka bean appears but doesn't dominate; it's present as a whisper of vanilla-tinged warmth, tempering rather than transforming. The synthetic accords (76%) become apparent here, lending an almost soapy, barbershop-like quality—imagine the medicinal snap of aftershave rather than the comfort of a tobacco pipe.
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3.5/5 (88)