Moschino
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The kumquat pierces through with sharp, almost tart brightness, immediately joined by Brazilian rosewood's woody-citrus character and hedione's clean, almost aldehyde-adjacent sharpness. Coriander adds a subtle spiced warmth that prevents this from feeling purely fresh, creating immediate complexity and forward momentum.
The citrus recedes gracefully as clary sage emerges with grassy, slightly herbal softness, whilst cinnamon leaf contributes a dry, warming spice that never borders on sweetness. Cyclamen transforms the composition into something powdery and delicate—the fragrance becomes more contemplative here, less immediately striking but increasingly layered.
Amberwood and cedar settle into the skin as the woody accord asserts itself fully, accompanied by artemisia's green, slightly mineral undertones and a whisper of musk that becomes increasingly intimate. The projection nearly disappears, but what remains is deliberately close and personal—a fragrant shadow rather than a statement.
Uomo? Moschino is a fragrance that asks its central question and answers it with deliberate ambiguity. Olivier Cresp crafts something that resists easy categorisation—neither purely masculine nor feminine, but rather a woody-fresh composition that occupies an intriguing middle ground. The kumquat and Brazilian rosewood opening suggests citrus brightness, yet the hedione cuts through with an almost soapy cleanliness that feels distinctly modern for 1997, preventing any fruity sweetness from settling. What makes this fragrance genuinely compelling is how the heart unfolds: clary sage introduces herbaceous green notes that dance against cinnamon leaf's subtle warmth, whilst cyclamen adds a powdery, slightly floral transparency that prevents the spice from becoming dominant.
This is a fragrance for those who find conventional masculine fragrances too heavy, yet balk at floral perfumes. The woody base—anchored by cedar and amberwood—provides structural integrity without resorting to the dense tobacco or leather notes that dominate masculine fragrances of its era. The artemisia adds a slightly green, almost artemisia-like dryness, whilst the musk and solar note create a skin-close drydown that feels closer to second skin than projection.
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3.7/5 (127)