Olfactive Studio
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Clary sage strikes first with herbaceous, almost peppery clarity, immediately tempered by earthy cumin that grounds the composition. Saffron and linen emerge in quick succession—the former adding an almost metallic spice, the latter imparting a clean, fabric-soft quality that's simultaneously masculine and intimate.
The leather accords blossom with surprising richness, revealing subtle animalic undertones alongside the jasmine's creamy, slightly indolic character. Violet adds powdered restraint, whilst the birch smoke begins its insistent emergence, creating a resinous haze that transforms the fragrance's emotional temperature from fresh to contemplative.
The composition distils into papyrus, vetiver, and tonka—a sophisticated trinity where smoky, woody vetiver dominates whilst papyrus contributes papery, almost incense-like texture and tonka provides the barest whisper of vanilla-adjacent comfort, preventing the finale from tipping into austerity.
Flash Back in New York conjures the leather-bound interior of a Manhattan speakeasy in 1923, where cigarette smoke curls through fabric and time itself seems suspended. This is a fragrance built on a deliberately austere accord—the opening salvo of clary sage and cumin establishes an herbaceous, almost medicinal temperament that refuses sentimentality, whilst the saffron threads through with a whisper of golden warmth. The genius lies in the linen note, an ingredient rarely explored in modern perfumery, which creates a crisp, almost textile quality that makes the scent feel worn rather than applied—as though you've inherited a jacket from someone with discerning taste.
The heart unfolds with deliberate restraint. Tuscan leather—that peculiar marriage of vegetable-tanned hide and iron—becomes the fragrance's philosophical centre, grounded and uncompromising. It's joined by jasmine and violet, though neither pushes toward florality; instead, they function as softer counterpoints to the leather's architectural presence, creating unexpected tenderness within the composition's masculine frame. The smokiness begins its creep here, a dark thread that will define the dry down.
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4.2/5 (76)