Estēe Lauder
Estēe Lauder
236 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Aldehydes and orange peel collide in a bright, slightly soapy burst that feels almost austere before the peach softens the edges slightly. The cinnamon and clove are already detectable beneath, warming the composition with a dry, almost peppery spice that dominates immediately over any sweetness.
The spices settle into a more integrated warmth whilst the florals gradually surface—jasmine and rose becoming perceptible, rendered delicate by iris's powdery restraint and ylang ylang's creamy note. Frankincense emerges now with genuine presence, lending the heart an unexpected incense-like dryness that prevents any floral sweetness from dominating.
Ambergris, benzoin, and tolu balm create a deeply resinous, almost amber-woody base that's simultaneously creamy and austere. Patchouli and vetiver anchor the composition, whilst vanilla surfaces only as a whisper—this is not a sweet finish but a lingering, slightly smoky dryness that smells faintly animalic and aged, suggesting leather and old spices rather than gourmandise.
Cinnabar is a fragrance that arrives like a spiced leather journal from an apothecary's back shelf—immediate, unapologetic, demanding attention. Bernard Chant's 1978 composition refuses to whisper; the aldehydes in the opening act as a clarifying agent, lending a slightly soapy, almost metallic sharpness that prevents the spices from becoming gourmand. This is crucial: peach and bergamot provide brightness, but they're swiftly overtaken by cinnamon and clove that feel genuinely warm rather than artificial—these aren't fragrance-lab recreations but notes with genuine bite and depth.
What distinguishes Cinnabar is how the heart layers florals beneath the spice rather than competing with it. Rose and jasmine emerge softly, rendered translucent by ylang ylang's creamy undertone, whilst iris adds a powdery, almost violet-tinged restraint that keeps this from tipping into floral excess. The frankincense-and-ambergris pairing is particularly effective here, creating an almost ecclesiastical dryness that grounds the composition's sensual impulses. This is amber that's smoky and resinous, not sweet or cosmetic.
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3.9/5 (111)