Oriza L. Legrand
Oriza L. Legrand
83 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The juniper and bergamot snap into sharp focus with a gin-like clarity, whilst davana adds an earthy, almost tobacco-tinged sweetness beneath the citrus brightness. Lavender threads through with herbal precision, establishing the fragrance's aromatic backbone before the spice begins its inevitable creep forward.
Bourbon geranium and cardamom create a warm, slightly peppery sweetness that gradually reveals the patchouli's fermented earthiness—suddenly the fragrance deepens considerably, the leather accord becoming tactile and slightly animalic. Immortelle adds a honeyed, almost narcotic quality that softens the spice's edge, whilst the may rose contributes a dusty, antiquarian floral quality.
The frankincense and labdanum emerge to create a soft, resinous cloud that feels almost incense-like, whilst tonka bean's creamy sweetness mingles with a subtle, skin-like musk. The vetiver and sandalwood provide a woody, slightly dry undertone that prevents the composition from becoming too gourmand, leaving a sophisticated amber-and-benzoin base that feels warm, intimate, and distinctly cerebral.
Cuir de l'Aigle Russe presents itself as a sophisticated mediator between the aromatic and the animalic—a fragrance that wears its leather accord like a well-tailored jacket rather than an aggressive second skin. The opening cascade of Canary Islands juniper and Italian bergamot establishes a crisp, almost gin-like clarity before the spiced heart begins its slow infiltration. Here, bourbon geranium and cardamom create a peppery sweetness that sits in fascinating tension with the Indonesian patchouli's earthy, slightly fermented quality; the patchouli refuses to recede, instead anchoring the composition with an almost tobacco-like warmth.
What makes this fragrance compelling is the restraint of its leather accord—at 64%, it's present but never dominant, threading through the composition rather than overwhelming it. The immortelle and may rose in the heart add a dusty, slightly honeyed floral dimension that prevents the fragrance from becoming too austere or traditionally masculine. As the base emerges, frankincense and labdanum create a soft, resinous halo that feels almost ecclesiastical against the musk and tonka bean's creamy undertones.
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Bond No. 9
4.6/5 (107)