Wine must smells like the intoxicating moment just before fermentation truly begins—a heady blend of crushed grape skins, fermenting fruit juice, and yeasty warmth. Imagine walking into a winery during harvest: there's the sharp sweetness of fresh grape pulp, hints of alcohol vapour beginning to rise, and an earthy, almost bread-like quality from active yeast. It's simultaneously fruity and slightly funky, with a subtle vinous bite that tingles the back of your nose. Think ripe grapes meeting warm bread dough with a whisper of alcohol's peppery sting.
Wine must—the freshly crushed grape juice and skins before fermentation completes—comes primarily from wine-producing regions like Burgundy, Bordeaux, and California's Napa Valley. Perfumers don't typically use the literal agricultural product; instead, they employ carefully synthesised molecules or fermented accords that capture must's characteristic notes. The creation involves isolating volatile compounds like ethanol, acetaldehyde, and fruity esters, then reconstructing them in a controlled laboratory environment. This allows consistency that fresh must cannot provide, whilst maintaining that intoxicating, pre-fermentation character.
Wine must serves as a rich, indulgent base note in gourmand fragrances, adding depth and a slightly boozy warmth. Perfumers layer it beneath fruits and vanilla to create a sophisticated sweetness with genuine complexity. It grounds compositions, preventing them from becoming overly candied, whilst lending an almost animalic, fermented sophistication that elevates casual gourmand into something more refined and grown-up.
Surprising harmonies